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I came home with four types of sweet melons, as well as a watermelon with yellow flesh, and couldn’t resist trying a taste of each one. As expected, all are delicious!
Since they need time to develop in the summer heat, melons tend to arrive late in the season at local markets, but are well worth the wait. Sweet and succulent, their rough outer skin offers no hint of the fresh goodness inside, but their scent – that luscious, flowery, exotic aroma – gives them away.
Melons are members of the Cucurbitaceae family, along with cucumbers, squashes, pumpkins and gourds, all of which grow on trailing vines. They’re divided into three basic categories: bitter melons, sweet melons and watermelon.
Bitter melons (sometimes known as bitter gourds) are native to the tropics and are used throughout the Asian continent in cuisine as varied as Indian, Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese.
Because of the bitter flavor for which they’re named, they’re typically cooked, rather than eaten raw, or pickled. They’re valued for their bitter taste, important in Asian cuisine, which stresses balance between the flavor groups of sweet, sour, bitter, salty and the fifth flavor, “umami,” which also can be described as savory.
Of the sweet melons, there are two types: summer (also known as dessert melons) and winter. Those available now are summer melons. Included in this group are melons with netted skin, such as cantaloupe (which Europeans call musk melons), Galia, Ogen and pineapple melons.
Winter melons take longer to ripen and are generally not available until late autumn. They’re elongated in shape, with smooth or ribbed skin. Casaba, Crenshaw and honeydew are in this group.
Sweet melons likely originated in Persia, Afghanistan or Armenia. Cantaloupes have been cultivated in Egypt (as well as India and Iran) since ancient Biblical times, well over 4,000 years ago. Melons are depicted in Egyptian drawings dating back to that period.
Arab settlers introduced melon seeds to Spain. It was from there that Columbus introduced the seeds to the Americas, where melons grew quickly and abundantly.
Because of their sweet flavor, summer or winter melons are often paired with salty foods, such as prosciutto or salty cheeses. The pleasing contrast in flavor and texture of a prosciutto-wrapped honeydew slice makes for a delicious appetizer.
If ripe and fresh, there is nothing like a slice of sweet melon served on its own. Even so, there are wonderful ways to enhance their flavor when combined with other foods.
For a simple but elegant dessert, simply cover cubes of sweet melon with a sparkling dessert wine. A non-sparkling wine is nice, too, such as a flowery Muscat. You can choose a single melon for this purpose, one that’s ripe and full of fragrance, or several kinds.
Since melon pairs well with mint, simple syrup flavored with crushed mint makes a nice sauce for melon balls, slices or cubes. One of the recipes I offer below is “Macedonia of Melon in Mint Syrup,” which is a variation on the mint theme. The melon in this case is macerated, which means it’s been allowed to soak in alcohol. (The alcohol burns off in the cooking process, but its flavor remains.)
Melon is full of water – 95 percent of it is made up of it, in fact – and thus is a refreshing and cooling food. When blended with another cooling food, cucumbers, and some sweetener, lime, mint and sparkling water, a drink called “Agua Fresca” is created, meaning “fresh water” in Spanish.
I love cold soups in summertime. To make a delicious one with Thai-inspired flavors, combine pureed sweet melon flesh with coconut milk, fresh lime, minced chiles, grated fresh ginger, Thai basil, mint and a bit of salt. Chill the soup well before enjoying on a warm day.
Sweet melons vary in their nutritional content. Generally, those with deeper colored orange flesh contain more beta carotene. Because of their high water content, they’re low in calories.
A quarter of a cantaloupe contains about 80 percent of our requirement for vitamins A and C, as well as a moderate amount of B vitamins, iron, calcium and folic acid.
Last but not least, watermelon is undoubtedly the most commonly enjoyed melon in the U.S. It originated in tropical Africa, and there is evidence it was cultivated in the Nile Valley as early as 2,000 B.C. By the 10th century it was cultivated in China, which remains the largest producer of watermelon today.
Moorish invaders introduced the watermelon to Europe, and by the 16th century it was introduced to American Indians. Early French explorers discovered that watermelon was being cultivated by Indians in Mississippi.
Watermelon, a natural diuretic, is 92 percent water and 6 percent sugar by weight. It’s high in vitamin C and beta carotene. Watermelon flesh can be red or yellow, and if a red-fleshed variety, it’s a significant source of lycopine, which has been found to be an effective cancer preventative.
The rind of the watermelon is edible as well as the flesh and contains an array of hidden nutrients. It’s used as a vegetable in China in stir-fries and stews, and is pickled both in China and here in the U.S.
The rind may be juiced along with the flesh for a refreshing drink, especially when combined with cucumber and celery. I recommend watermelon grown organically if using the rind in cuisine.
Feta cheese is a delicious, if unexpected, pairing for watermelon. Its salty taste and crumbly texture contrasts with the sweet crispness of the melon for an exotic flavor combination.
One of the recipes offered below is a salad made with these ingredients as well as mint and olives. It may sound unusual, but it was a favorite with the students in my culinary class featuring olives. Try it and see what you think!
In addition to melons, there is a beautiful array of local produce available now at farmers’ markets. I hope you’ll enjoy this beautiful “peak of season” time of year when fresh food is in such abundance.
If you’d like the specifics for making Agua Fresca with melon or the melon-coconut soup, please email me and I’ll send you the recipes.
I’ll be doing free culinary demos – complete with tastes! – at two upcoming farmers’ markets (Sept. 17 in Clearlake and Sept. 18 in Kelseyville), so please feel free to email me for details about that, too.
In closing, I’ll leave you with a Middle Eastern proverb about melon: "He who fills his stomach with melons is like he who fills it with light – there is a blessing in them." Bon appétit!
Macedonia of melon in mint syrup
½ cup water
½ cup dry white wine or sherry
¼ cup sugar
2-3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves
½ teaspoon chopped dried orange peel
¼ cup fresh orange juice
4 cups mixed cantaloupe and honeydew melon (about 1½ lbs.), balls or cut into 1-inch chunks
Fresh whole mint leaves for garnish (optional)
In a small nonreactive saucepan, bring the first five ingredients to a brisk boil over medium heat, stirring often until the sugar dissolves. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is reduced to about ¾ cup, about 10 to 15 minutes.
Strain the mixture into a small bowl, discarding the solids. Cool to room temperature. Add orange juice to cooled syrup, stirring well to combine.
Pour the syrup over melon; turn the fruit gently to combine. Serve at room temperature or chill for at least an hour and serve cold. Garnish with mint leaves, if desired. (The mint syrup, without the orange juice, can be prepared in advance and refrigerated for up to three days.)
Mediterranean salad with watermelon, Feta cheese and kalamata olives
8 cups watermelon balls or cubes (approximately ½ of a 10 to 12 pound melon)
½ cup Feta cheese, crumbled
½ cup pitted kalamata olives, cut in half (about 24 olives)
½ red onion, thinly sliced
1 cup mint leaves, chopped
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice (from approximately two limes)
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
Squeeze lime juice into small bowl. Slowly drizzle olive oil in while whisking to blend. Combine remaining ingredients in large bowl and pour the dressing over, tossing gently to coat.
Allow salad to sit for 20 minutes so flavors may blend.
Esther Oertel, the "Veggie Girl," is a personal chef and culinary coach and is passionate about local produce. Oertel owns The SageCoach Personal Chef Service and teaches culinary classes at Chic Le Chef in Hidden Valley Lake. She welcomes your questions and comments; e-mail her at This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it .
Follow Lake County News on Twitter at http://twitter.com/LakeCoNews and on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/pages/Lake-County-News/143156775604?ref=mf .
Recipe: Nightingale, T-bones hellfire hot sauce (this page)
Recipe: grilled Coral bed flaming pine needles (this page)
For more information about barbecue chef Steven Raichlen recipe competition and how to enter, click here.
Vain ne päivät ja kesän lopussa ennen koulun on määritetty käynnistymään, Omat lapset olivat alkaneet menettää sen. Ne olivat loppuu pelin ideoita ja oli käyttänyt kaikki muut heidän käytettävissään. Katsomassa niitä, joka Pomppu väsynyt, I tarjosi heille haaste.
Kysyin niitä, jos ne ajatellut ne voitaisiin käsitellä ryhmän projektin ja neljä päät vahvistuksen nyökkäsi. I sitten antoi heille keittokirja ja löytää yhden alkuruoat, yksi tärkeimmistä astian ja dessert, joka loisi yhdessä kiistanalaisia. I poimia Ruokaostokset, kun niiden minulle luettelo ainesosista ja tarjoaisi tarvittaessa ohjeita.Projektin hyväksyttiin yksimielisesti.
Istuva reseptit kirja ympärille, lapsesi kesti lähes tunnin tehdä niiden valintoja.Valitse valikosta: Intian katkarapualusten keittoa, naudanlihan tomaattien ja rahapajan tunnus ja Aprikoosin ja kookos ympyrä. Vau oli olen koskaan odottaen Tätä juhlaa.
Finalized luettelo ainesosista, joiden I meni ja teki Ruokaostokset, meidän järjestelyn valmistusasiakirjoilla. Kun sain takaisin, Anna tyhjentää pussit, ennen kuin ne vietti hetken kulinaariset tehtävien jakaminen lapsille.Yksi niistä tarjotaan Cucurbitaceae-suvun katkarapuja, kun taas toinen leikata vihanneksia jne. Puolestani kuin I pysyi, alalle, on joitakin asioita hieman perustandardeista ilman haku kuten olen ollut tehdä mitään, varmistamalla samalla kaikki, kukaan ei leikata tai tallennettu itse. Aika ajoin I tulisi pyytää esimerkiksi, "Äiti, mikä on pilkkominen?"
-Yli tunnin, kuulin lapset puhua, naura ja keskustella vaiheisiin, toisin sanoen ne käsitellyn ryhmänä. Talon alkoivat hajun hyvän ja Omat lapset olivat oppimisen tärkeistä asioista elämän tietoja: auttaa toisiaan, delegoidessaan tehtäviä ja ottaa luottamuksen saavuttamiseksi yhteinen tavoite. Aloin esittää itse, miksi minulla ei ollut Tämä ajatus asti...
HERKULLISTA!
Tulevat dinnertime, elämäni mies ja olen ollut erittäin innoissaan kokeilla, mitä meidän lapset oli valmistanut meille. Oli yksi sääntö: Me kaikki oli otettava kuhunkin maljaan ensimmäisen vianselvitysmenettelyt samaan aikaan. Niin in unison, meidän plunged meille Lusikat tulee kuuma keitto. Se oli herkullista ja me toasted keittiömestarit, Onnittelemalla niitä niiden pyrkimyksissä ja niiden onnistumisen. Ne olivat venussimpukoiden niin onnellinen. Ne myös oppineet, juuri siitä, miten paljon aikaa tarvitaan bang magluto ng waláng.
Viimeistellään käytöstä maukkaita ruokia, kysyin lasten jos ne halusivat tehdä tämän tapahtuman perinne.Kaksi sunnuntaisin kuukaudessa, ne Poimi ateriasi ja kokki yhdessä.Tavoite: jotta voimme löytää uusia reseptejä.Lasten katsonut oli loistava ajatus ja teki niin I.Saan kuukausittain illallinen tullin käytöstä kaksi yötä!Uudelleen, miksi ei ajattelin tämän aiemman?
I share this vignette state quite a few years ago. With a focus on us today seemed worth repeating: okra
' Y ' all Board and get better before the Garden may be too hot "was my mother's Favorites parting words, such as he leads out of the door in the summer of aamut for their work.
My sister and, in General, we were always ignored him., but we were sorry we did, in particular, sorry, when it was time to cut the okra.
We will hot, irritated and itching garden.
Anyone who is cut, ochre to know what I am talking about. those who do not have had the pleasure of okra plants have a short hair.And even if they appear to be benign, together is a great skin and causes the itch that is only enhanced by the midday sun.
However, fried okra, vine ripe Madame sliced tomatoes and fresh corn's almost their aim to make our temporary discomfort.
Cooking okra: even if covered with cornmeal and deep-fried okra is Southern favorite, it is a plant that is stir-fried, boiled, baked, steamed, microwaved and grilled.
Okra pods should be cut when they are young, even though they are still tender. Pods should be 2-4 inches in length. Older okra is hard and the fibrous. When post is difficult to cut, pod is probably too old for use In small pods. Search by firm and colored brightly and feel moist your hand.
Carol J. G. Ward
Okra and tomatoes
6 servings
(14-Ounce) 1 can beef broth
16 ounces fresh or frozen sliced okra
1 tablespoon dried minced Onion
1 (15-Ounce) can tomatoes, drained of cubes
1 (6-Ounce) can tomato paste
salt and pepper to taste
• Bring the broth to shall be adopted in accordance with the Okra. Add, subtract the combined production of heat and simmer until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain partly broth from okra.
• Add the minced onion and tomatoes and okra begins to fall apart until simmer.
• Mix tomato Paste thicken.Add salt and pepper to taste.
Refrigerator Okra pickles
1 White cup or cider vinegar
1 1/2 to 2 cups water
1 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic, or taste
1 teaspoon Celery seeds
1 teaspoon white mustard seeds
1/4 teaspoon Turmeric
1/2 Teaspoon crushed red pepper
2 tablespoons salt or to taste
small okra pods
• Bring all ingredients except the okra pods. Remove heat, Let cool slightly.
• Insert a space okra pods half gallon (or recommended maximum size) screw top tank.
• Pour salt water over and let the okra with pickle and tomato salad in a refrigerator for up to two weeks to days rotating jar sometimes to share its brine.
Note: This salt water can be any type of vegetable pickle, cucumber, cauliflower, carrots, etc.
Southern incorrect: you may not much South than this appetizer idea Cut a piece of country ham. thin strip (about 1/2 inches). Slice in half lengthwise. pickled okra okra wrap around the Ham and secure with a Toothpick. Yum.
Home grown tomatoes are everywhere-in the summer store shelves in a server farm on the backyard gardens. Is sweet and flat shaped like a grape tomatoes, jänneväliä täyteläistä and brilliant red beefsteaks and gnarly formatted heirlooms with embedded stems.
In some places sell tomatoes litre--a great way to buy them, if you are incorporated into the canning.And if you are not connected to the gig in canning, drying oven at try. (I) the use of summer tomatoes a wealth of a few ways:
Caprese salad: Slice large tomatoes 1/4-inch thick. Platter, select an alternative tomato slices slices fresh mozzarella and basil leaves. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Crostini: Dice tomatoes and garlic in olive oil, ground, about 1/2 teaspoon sugar and chopped Basil and oregano mix. Slice Baguette 1/4-inch-thick pieces and Serve tomato mixture toast. with bread. Baked: Drizzle of tomatoes a little oil, kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bake sale 275 to 300 degrees until the tomatoes are shriveled, but still moist, about 2 hours. Remove the oven and cool. Refrigerate for up to one week. pasta dishes and Use Tossed salads. Oven dried: Cut the Roma tomatoes in half lengthwise. Core funding for relevant and remove seeds. Place tomato halves, skin side, baking sheet lined with parchment. Bake sale in an oven heated to approximately 8-10 hours for tomatoes, which are approximately 3 1/2 cm long, 200 degrees. Smaller tomatoes takes less time.After scanning approximately 6 hours. in the case of tomatoes should drying shriveling. When you are finished, they will be able to reddish-brown flat pieces of approximately 1 1/2 cm long.Today, the recipe used Roma tomatoes pizza.You can use the pizza Grill in the oven or bake sale.Serve the entree or appetizer.
Grilling pizza dough is different because it cooks faster. most recipes call for garden furniture on the other side, the translation by adding thermophilus and finishing cooking. accordingly on both sides to get a good Grill marks.
Pizza cooked and crumbled also requires the Italian Turkey sausage. This is a great way to cut calories instead of Italian sausage, based on pork.
1 sterling melted, room temperature pizza dough
Flour work surface
Cornmeal
1-2 tablespoons of olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon oregano, shared
Divided into two 4-Ounce containers Mediterranean blend of feta cheese, crumbled (or approximately 2 cups shredded cheese, use your favorite)
2 link to sweet or hot Italian sausage, Turkey crumbled, optional
5-6 good Roma tomatoes and your favorite tomatoes sliced thin
Fresh basil leaves, optional
Esikuumentamiseen oven at 400 degrees or prepare the Grill.
Cut the pizza dough in half Press lightly floured work surface. dough out to about 10-inch circle. Sprinkle with cornmeal from the table, and rolled out dough table. Repeat the remaining dough.
Brush each is approximately 1/2 teaspoon olive oil, salt and Sprinkle the top of the. black pepper. Sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon oregano.
If, after baking, sprinkle each pizza cheese Cup 1/4. Sprinkle cooked Italian sausage with. Top with tomato yield is constantly threatened by sectors. Sprinkle remaining cheese and Add at the top of the good thermophilus drizzle of olive oil. bake sale 14 minutes or until crust is slightly crisp and cheese browns.
If the BBQ facilities, some with oil brush Grill grates. Set rolled out crusts on the grate and Grill for about 3-4 minutes, or until the Nice Grill marks. flip and brush with olive oil and spices and add thermophilus. close the cover and Grill for about 8 minutes or until crust is lightly brown and cheese melts.
After it is cooked, sprinkle the chopped Basil and fresh slice pizza.
Works 8.
Calories per Serving: 202 (31% Fat), 7 grams of fat (3 grams of saturated fat), 27 grams of carbohydrates, 8 g protein, 482 mg of sodium, 17 mg cholesterol, 1 grams fiber.
Celina Tio is always up for a challenge, even when it involves fruit that can kill you.
This summer, the chef and owner of Julian, a casual neighborhood restaurant in Brookside that just celebrated its one-year-anniversary, competed in the latest season of “The Next Iron Chef,” debuting at 8 p.m. Sunday on Food Network. In each episode there are two “battles.” One involves a secret ingredient, and one’s an elimination challenge.
It’s no wonder Tio was chosen as one of the contestants. The midtown resident has garnered local and national accolades, including 2005 Chef of the Year by Chef magazine, and the James Beard Foundation’s 2007 Best Chef: Midwest.
OK, so she can win national awards and take on some of the best chefs in the country on a high-pressure cooking show.
But could she rise to our challenge?
That’s right. We had one for her, too.
What was it?
Er … that took some thinking. Let’s see, what could we throw at such an accomplished pro, a 40-year-old self-taught chef who has worked at the Ritz-Carlton in Philadelphia, helped open two specialty restaurants at Walt Disney World and headed the kitchen at the American Restaurant for seven years?
Then it hit us: the Star Challenge. We asked her to develop three delicious dishes using fascinating ingredients we found at the 888 International Market at 10118 W. 119th St. in south Overland Park. There had to be something in there that would provide a challenge.
Never been?
Words do not do this place justice. The cavernous Asian grocery store carries items from China, Japan, Korea, Vietnam, Thailand, the Philippines, Malaysia and more. It is stocked with aisle after aisle of foods you just won’t find in mainstream Midwestern grocery stores.
For instance?
We gave Tio durian fruit.
For the uninitiated, a durian is a large, heavy, stinky, dangerous and occasionally illegal Asian delicacy. Covered in sharp spikes and weighing more than many a bowling ball, it can draw blood if it scratches you, or knock you unconscious (or kill you) if it hits your head after falling from a tree. And, oh yeah, did we mention it’s against the law to take the stinky sucker onto public transportation in Thailand?
Well, it is. Just so you know. We weren’t making this easy.
Why, you might be saying, would anyone bother with such an openly hostile fruit in the first place?
Because many think it’s worth it.
Durian, which is bought frozen, has no smell until it thaws. It’s often called “the king of fruits” and the fruit that “smells like hell, but tastes like heaven.” Tio described the scent as sour onions or old gym socks.
In the market, when we picked one up, a Thai man stopped his cart and smiled.
“Ohhh,” he said, nodding toward the durian. “That is awesome. That’s from my country!”
Sold.
Durian fruit surprise
Here’s how the challenge worked. We presented Tio with more than a dozen items and told her she had to use at least five, including the durian fruit. Other items we gave her to choose from were dry fungus, pork fu, sweet beans, shibazuke, a cactus leaf, Chinese-style sweet sausage, dried lily flower, bean curd sticks, Silkie chicken, sea cucumber, shrimp sauce, dried lemongrass and lotus root. She could add any of her own ingredients, but the recipes had to be new, tried and tasty.
We gave her two days and wished her good luck.
Could she pull it off?
Could you?
Two days doesn’t seem like a lot of time. But keep in mind: On the show she was lucky if she got an hour to create a dish. So she’s used to working fast. Immediately after she saw our challenge ingredients, one dish sprang to mind.
“I saw the dried lemongrass, the durian and the sweet beans and knew instantly I would do a Thai-inspired dish,” she said.
While she hadn’t ever worked with durian before, she knew what it was and what it was like on the inside.
“And having been in Bangkok, I had walked past many a cut-open durian. Every market I walked into in Bangkok smelled like that.”
She figured she’d take advantage of the unique sweet and pungent flavor and make a durian panna cotta, accompanied by diced mangos, red Thai curry paste, lime juice, lime zest, sugar, water and the sweet beans (which included a bean called “Job’s tears.”)
Awesome.
Tio cut the durian before we arrived. Slicing it along its seams, she pulled out the lobes of pudding-like fruit and pureed them in a blender with whole milk and sugar before straining, adding gelatin and letting the mixture set. Later she garnished with the diced fruit.
Catching only a slight whiff of the sweaty gym sock smell, I decided I would try only a bite of the finished dish and keep my mouth shut if I didn’t like it. Oh ye of little faith. When the panna cotta was set and topped with the garnish, I had one bite all right. Followed by another, and another, and … well.
Fine. I ate the whole thing. It was delicious. If I had been alone, I would have licked the plate. Who knew something that smelled so bad would taste so good?
“It’s kind of like Morbier cheese,” she said. “It’s this really stinky cheese, but if you can get it past your nose and into your mouth it’s really delicious. But some people can’t get it past their nose.”
Inspiration on demand
When Tio saw the rolled up bean curd sticks she had a great idea. She would cook them and unroll them. After all, moo shu is usually served with a pancake, she said.
One problem: The bean curd sticks were “unrollable.”
“So I was a little disappointed,” she said. “Didn’t work out, so you adapt and make it happen anyway. I just julienned the bean curd stick and sauteed it with the cabbage, fungus and chicken. And it’s on a lotus chip, so it’s sort of like an hors d’oeuvre.”
I was going to have only a bite of one. They were too good for that. I had three.
Did she ever have to adapt like that on the show?
Absolutely.
“Resourcefulness is important,” she said. “You have a plan going in, and it doesn’t work. You still have to make something happen, because if you don’t present a dish, you can’t be judged.”
Ryan Spruhan, Tio’s sous chef, is looking forward to seeing his boss cook on the show.
“She’s always run nice kitchens and had great crews to do it for her,” he said. “The few times I have seen her cook it’s a project here or there, or she’s schooling me when we’re working next to each other. It’s never just her on her own, being responsible for everything that she does and the end result being all from her hands. So I am very excited to see it.”
While such pressure was tough, Tio said, it taught her something.
“Never underestimate the power of what you can do,” she said. “It’s hard to have inspiration on demand. But I did it and had fun with it.”
She had fun with our challenge, too.
First date jitters
For the record, Tio presented us with three dishes and used 10 of the challenge ingredients. Like the other dishes, her final creation — Pork Belly Ramen — did not disappoint. It was as flavorful as it was beautiful, a big bowl of steaming hot goodness. While the crispy pork belly and homemade ramen were the stars of this dish, she used the black fungus, the shibazuke (pickled cucumbers and eggplant) and the pork fu (dried, shredded pork) to add fascinating flavors that kept me eating until I was too full to go on.
And so our experiment ended.
While Tio wasn’t nervous completing our challenge, she was nervous on “Next Iron Chef.”
“The first challenge was hard because you didn’t know what to expect,” she said. “We didn’t know each other’s cooking abilities. Just to deal with that unknown was hard and scary. One of the other chefs, Bryan, described it as your first kiss, your first date, with two dudes fighting in your stomach.”
In completing our test, Tio had only two easy objectives: Make it delicious and stay true to the ingredients’ origins.
“I think I succeeded,” she said.
We think so, too.
The lesson? Just because you might be unfamiliar with an odd-sounding, or looking, or smelling, ingredient, doesn’t mean it can’t be scrumptious in the hands of a skilled chef.
“When you come to a restaurant and a chef puts together a meal, you have to trust that we know what we are doing, and we’re not going to serve you weird stuff,” Tio said. “The other night I had a dish on my menu which was seared halibut with candied ginger jasmine rice, braised bok choy and a Chinese fermented black bean sauce. And a guest was saying, ‘I like potatoes a lot better than rice.’ But, you know, mashed potatoes would not go with fermented Chinese black bean sauce. Things have to work together.”
Boy did they ever.
Durian Panna Cotta With Thai Sweet BeansMakes 8 servings
* 1 durian
3 cups Shatto whole milk
Slightly less than 1/2 cup sugar
1 envelope (about 1/4 cup) unflavored gelatin, bloomed (see note)
2 limes zested, then juiced (reserve zest)
1 teaspoon red curry paste
3/4 cup sugar
1 cup water
* 2 tablespoons dried lemongrass
* 1 (4 to 6-ounce) bag sweet beans
1 mango, small diced
To cut and prepare durian: Cut along “seams” with a knife. Pull out the wedge, removing all of the soft flesh. Continue to take out the pudding-like flesh, removing seeds, and place in a small saucepan; reserve the shell, if desired.
To make the panna cotta: Pour milk over durian. Add 1/2 cup sugar and warm just long enough for the sugar to dissolve. Puree fruit mixture in blender on high until smooth, and put through a fine-mesh strainer. Add the bloomed gelatin, and swirl until dissolved. Pour panna cotta into the cleaned shell of the durian, or into 4-ounce ramekins, and chill in refrigerator until set (about 2 hours).
For the garnish: Place juice of limes, red curry paste, 3/4 cup sugar, water and dried lemongrass into a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and allow to steep for about 10 minutes; strain mixture through a fine-mesh strainer. Add the beans and diced mango. Sprinkle with reserved lime zest.
Gelatin note: To “bloom” gelatin requires soaking granules in the amount of cold water specified on the package for 3 to 5 minutes, or until thoroughly dissolved.
Per serving: 298 calories (21 percent from fat), 8 grams total fat (2 grams saturated), 13 milligrams cholesterol, 57 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams protein, 86 milligrams sodium, 4 grams dietary fiber.
Pork Belly RamenMakes 4 servings
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 pound pork belly, cut into four portions
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 sheet kombu (seaweed)
1/4 cup bonito flakes (Japanese dried, smoked fish)
* 1/4 cup pork fu, packed
* 1/2 cup high-quality dried black fungus, rehydrated and divided in half (slice half of them, then reserve)
2 quarts simmering water
2 shallots, chopped
12 black peppercorns
1 package ramen noodles (not instant)
4 eggs, poached
4 green onions, sliced diagonally
* 1 (4-ounce) package shibazuke (pickled eggplant), sliced thinly
For the pork belly: The pork belly can be prepared a day ahead of time. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. In a saucepan, heat the canola oil on medium high. When the oil “dances” or ripples, season the pork belly with salt and pepper and place in the pan, fat side down. Cook until golden brown. Turn over and cook the other side for 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a braising pan. Add kombu, bonito flakes, pork fu, 1/4 cup fungus, simmering water, shallots and peppercorns to cover the pork belly. Cover with aluminum foil, and place in oven for about 3 hours. (This next step isn’t necessary if you don’t want the pork belly to be crispy, but I would highly recommend it.) Remove the pork belly and place between two trays, weighing it down with two cans or anything heavy. Allow to cool. Strain the braising liquid and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. When the pork belly has cooled, sear again in canola oil, fat side down, turning it over and finishing in a 300-degree oven for 20 minutes.
For the ramen: In a pot of boiling, salted water, cook the ramen noodles. Heat the strained braising liquid with the remaining 1/4 cup sliced black fungus. When the ramen is cooked, divide into four bowls, top with boiling broth, the crispy pork belly, a poached egg and sliced green onions and place a good tablespoon of the sliced shibazuke on top of the pork belly. Enjoy while steaming hot.
Per serving: 437 calories (52 percent from fat), 25 grams total fat (7 grams saturated), 288 milligrams cholesterol, 20 grams carbohydrates, 31 grams protein, 1,071 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.
IS TIO THE NEXT IRON CHEF?While Celina Tio can’t reveal how she fared against the other nine chefs, she is having a watch party at Julian ( http://www.juliankc.com/), her Brookside restaurant, for the entire eight-episode season, Sundays through Nov. 21. Guests will be served dishes that Tio cooked on that night’s show.
Tio was pleased with her Star Challenge dishes for this story. In fact, if there’s enough interest (e-mail her at info@juliankc.com if you’d be interested in trying them) she may feature them in one of her Sunday night family meals (after the watch party ends, of course.)
Also see her in the October issue of Food Network Magazine, featuring bios of Tio and her challengers.
We asked Celina Tio to make three dishes using five exotic ingredients. One dish must include the spiked durian fruit (below right).Tio actually chose 10 more ingredients: the Silkie chicken in the plastic wrap and (in bowls, left to right from top): dried lemongrass, sweet beans, rehydrated bean curd stick, rehydrated lily flower, dried lily flower, bean curd stick, pork fu, shibazuke (pickled eggplant), sliced lotus root, rehydrated fungus, dried fungus, whole lotus root.
* in recipes = challenge ingredients
‘Moo Shu’ Silkie ChickenThis recipe uses a cooking method known as sous vide, a French term meaning “under vacuum.” If you don’t have a sous vide machine, you can buy a Cryovac machine and cook the packet in boiling water at 165 degrees for three to four hours. Just be sure meat is thoroughly cooked before shredding from the bones.
Makes 2 dozen appetizer servings
* 1 Chinese Silkie breed chicken, split and Cryovaced (or vacuum packed) (see note)
4 star anise
20 black peppercorns
1 teaspoon fennel seed
4 cloves
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup housemade or low-sodium chicken stock
* 1 lotus root, sliced thinly
1 tablespoon peanut or
canola oil, plus more for frying chips
1/4 of a small cabbage, cored and shredded
* 1/4 cup high-quality dried black fungus
* 1/4 cup dried lily flower, rehydrated and diagonally sliced
* 1 (6-inch) piece of bean curd stick, thinly sliced
1 egg, beaten
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon Chinese black vinegar
1/4 cup housemade or low-sodium chicken stock
2 teaspoons Maggi sauce (similar to soy sauce)
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons plum sauce
1 green onion, sliced
diagonally
Place Silkie chicken, star anise, peppercorns, fennel seed, cloves, kosher salt and stock in a bag and vacuum seal. Place chicken packet in a pot of water heated to 165 degrees for three to four hours. (Use a thermometer to keep the water temperature constant.) Remove cooked chicken from bag and discard liquid. Shred meat from bones. Reserve meat, discard bones.
Soak slices of lotus root in water for 30 minutes; drain. Heat a deep skillet with a half inch of canola oil until it reaches 280 degrees on a thermometer. Fry lotus root for 2 minutes on each side or until crisp. Place chips on paper towel; set aside.
In a saute pan, over high heat, add 1 tablespoon peanut or canola oil. When it “dances” in the pan, add cabbage, fungus, lily flower and bean curd stick. Saute for about 1 minute, then add the shredded chicken. Push the ingredients to one side of the pan and add the beaten egg, scrambling. When the egg is cooked, incorporate it into the rest of the ingredients. Add the sesame oil, black vinegar, additional 1/4 cup chicken stock and Maggi sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary with salt and black pepper.
Put a dot of plum sauce on each lotus chip. Spoon mu shu chicken on each chip, and garnish with sliced green onions if desired.
Cryovac note: Once used only in professional kitchens, Cryovac machines are becoming more commonly available at housewares and warehouse stores.
Per serving: 72 calories (52 percent from fat), 4 grams total fat (1 gram saturated), 26 milligrams cholesterol, 2 grams carbohydrates, 7 grams protein, 109 milligrams sodium, trace dietary fiber.
To reach James A. Fussell, call 816-234-4460 or send e-mail to jfussell@kcstar.com.Report comment as: (required) X Obscenity/vulgarity Hate speech Personal attack Advertising/Spam Copyright/Plagiarism OtherRead most cookbooks, in either English or Italian, and they'll tell you to fix a frittata pretty much the same way you'd fix an omelet, stirring and scrambling and lifting the cooked egg to let the raw slide through. Then when the eggs have just firmed, turn them over to cook the other side, either with a flip and a flick of the wrist, or by inverting them onto a plate or a lid and sliding them back into the pan.
The first requires a certain gymnastic ability and a dead aim (or a dog that will clean up any eggy misses off the floor). The latter is just plain messy.
Still, this was the way I made frittatas for years. In the spring, I love a frittata made with slender asparagus. Leave them unpeeled and cook them just until they begin to wave before you add them to the egg mixture. But maybe my favorite frittata is one I make in the summer with zucchini. Coarsely grate about a pound of it (an old-fashioned box grater works fine). Then saute the grated zucchini with some slow-cooked onions just until it softens and changes color. Stir this into a half-dozen eggs beaten with a half-cup of Parmigiano-Reggiano and eight to 10 torn basil leaves and cook.
It was this last frittata that led me to an easier way of cooking them. And talk about hiding in plain sight: It came from Marcella Hazan, the queen of Italian cooking. I could have sworn that in the last 25 years I had cooked almost every recipe in every one of her books. How had I missed this one?
In fact, I stumbled across it looking for the proportions for that zucchini omelet. It was one of those things: I thought I remembered the recipe being one of Hazan's. Ironically, though she has a recipe for zucchini frittata, it's not at all the one I was thinking of (she slices the zucchini rather than grating it, and uses a lot less).
But it was reading over the basic technique that turned my head around. Hazan's way of cooking a frittata is utterly simple: rather than all of that stirring and scraping of the eggs as they cook, she simply leaves them to set over a very low heat. Then instead of flipping the frittata, she just runs it under a hot broiler to set and brown the top.
Not only is her way easier, but when I tried the same recipe using both techniques side by side, it made a frittata that was moister and more tender. The only refinements I'd add are that it cooks best if you cover the pan during the stovetop cooking to trap the heat, and that it unmolds easiest if you use a nonstick skillet.
The key to getting it exactly right is letting it cook slowly on top of the stove until there is just a shallow puddle of raw egg left on top, and then sticking it under the broiler for only a couple of minutes Probably the hardest part is unmolding the frittata from the pan; even in a nonstick, eggs will want to adhere. So use a small spatula to free the edges, then rap the pan hard a couple of times on the cutting board. It'll bang really loud, but the bottom of the frittata should pop free. Then you just need to slide it onto a plate for serving.
Once you've grasped the basics, frittatas are really easy to improvise. For a 10-inch skillet, you'll need about six eggs and 1 to 1 ½ cups of cooked filling. At least part of that should be cooked onion; a frittata lacks that certain savory quality without it. On the other hand, use garlic sparingly, if at all.
Cheese can be added at your whim. For most frittatas, I think Parmigiano is a perfect match with the flavor of egg. But I could certainly see using Pecorino in some situations. And in some cases (such as seafood frittatas), maybe you won't want any cheese at all.
Probably the simplest frittata I made during this most recent spree is also one of the best. Saute some chopped green onions in butter, add shelled shrimp and cook just until they are firm. Stir in the egg with some basil, pop it on the stove and there you are.
Another favorite is only a little more complicated. Based on Parsons' First Law of Cooking (anything that combines long-cooked onions, ham and cheese is going to be good), I sauteed onions until they were sweet and soft, tossed in some slivered prosciutto and then beat the eggs with a good handful of grated Parmigiano.
Which one's for dinner tonight? That's a tough call — one's flavor is simple and direct, the other is more complex and comforting. And the really great thing is, now that these frittatas are so easy to make, I no longer have to choose.
Prosciutto and Onion Frittata
Makes 6 servings as appetizer, 4 as main course
3 tablespoons butter
1 cup thinly sliced onions
1/8 teaspoon salt
3 thin slices prosciutto (about 1 1/2 ounces), cut crosswise in 1/4-inch slivers
6 eggs
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, divided
1. Heat the broiler. Melt the butter in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onion and salt, then cover the pan and cook until the onions have softened, about 5 minutes. Remove the lid and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions have lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in the prosciutto and cook until softened, 2 to 3 minutes.
2. While the onions are cooking, beat the eggs with a fork in a mixing bowl just until the yolks and the white are thoroughly mixed, but don't overbeat, which can make the frittata dry. Beat in the parsley and 1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano.
3. Add the egg mixture to the pan with the onions and prosciutto and stir well to combine. Reduce the heat to low and cover the pan. Cook, without stirring, until the eggs have set, leaving only a top layer uncooked, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano on top. Place under the broiler until the top is browned and puffy, 1 to 2 minutes and the eggs are cooked.
4. To unmold the frittata, let it cool slightly in the pan. Use a spatula to loosen it along the sides, and then bang it firmly on a cutting board to release the underside. Slide it out onto a serving plate. Serve. If you're going to refrigerate the frittata, let it warm to room temperature before serving.
Each of 6 servings: 164 calories; 8 grams protein; 2 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 13 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 237 mg. cholesterol; 1 gram sugar; 289 mg. sodium.
Shrimp and Basil Frittata
Makes 6 servings as appetizer, 4 as main course
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup thinly sliced green onions (both green and white parts), about 4 onions
1/2 pound peeled small shrimp (70 to 100 per pound)
6 eggs
1/4 teaspoon salt
8 to 10 leaves of basil, torn into small pieces
1. Melt the butter in a 10-inch broiler safe, nonstick skillet over medium low heat. Add the green onions and cook until they've softened slightly, about 2 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook until they are firm, about 5 minutes.
2. While the onions and shrimp are cooking, beat the eggs, salt and basil with a fork in a mixing bowl just until the yolks and the white are thoroughly mixed, but don't overbeat, which can make the frittata dry.
3. Add the egg mixture to the pan with the onions and shrimp and stir well to combine. Reduce the heat to low and cover the pan. Cook, without stirring, until the eggs have set, leaving only a top layer uncooked, about 10 minutes. Place under the broiler until the top is browned and puffy, 1 to 2 minutes and the eggs are cooked through.
4. To unmold the frittata, let it cool slightly in the pan. Use a spatula to loosen it along the sides, and then bang it firmly on a cutting board to release the underside. Slide it out onto a serving plate. Serve. If you're going to refrigerate the frittata, let it warm to room temperature before serving.
Each of 6 servings: 148 calories; 14 grams protein; 1 gram carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 9 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 279 mg. cholesterol; 1 gram sugar; 225 mg. sodium.